慢游潮州古城,感受與世無(wú)爭(zhēng)的小城時(shí)光
關(guān)聯(lián)活動(dòng)
此游記沒(méi)有關(guān)聯(lián)活動(dòng)
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="image-loaded" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_gOPCsDmP.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p>潮州可以說(shuō)是個(gè)獨(dú)特的存在,悠久的歷史和自成一派的文化傳承讓人印象深刻。潮州方言、潮劇、潮州音樂(lè)、潮州工藝、潮州菜和潮州工夫茶等都是其中的代表。在外人眼中,潮州人是敢于闖天下和艱苦打拼的,也是保守和遵循傳統(tǒng)的。</p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_KYpdcOJU.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p>善于抱團(tuán)的潮州人早已經(jīng)在商屆闖出名堂,潮商成為中國(guó)影響力最大的商幫之一,如今遍布海外的潮州人已經(jīng)將他們的文化、傳統(tǒng)、日常飲食等各方面帶到了世界各地。正是這種極具影響力的傳播讓我對(duì)潮州文化產(chǎn)生了濃厚的興趣,于是我決定到潮州這座古城去尋根溯源。</p>
<h1>潮州古城</h1>
<p>從廣州到潮州,交通還是頗為方便,高速、飛機(jī)、列車(chē)都可以。光是列車(chē)就有動(dòng)車(chē)和高鐵可以選擇,無(wú)論是從廣州東站還是廣州南站,每天都有多趟列車(chē)往返兩地。從廣州到高鐵潮汕站,只需要兩個(gè)來(lái)小時(shí)。</p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_7XgwYnJJ.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">到達(dá)潮州,第一時(shí)間當(dāng)然直奔</span><span class="a a5">潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">,這個(gè)以</span><span class="a a5">牌坊街</span><span class="a a5">為核心的老城區(qū)是個(gè)充滿活力的地方。古城古鎮(zhèn)我去過(guò)不少,但</span><span class="a a5">潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">卻和大部分古城不一樣,這是一座活著的古城。這一點(diǎn),從踏入這座城便可清晰感受到。不像那些為了旅游開(kāi)放而改造的古城,</span><span class="a a5">潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">甚至不是旅游區(qū),而是國(guó)家歷史文化名城。不需要門(mén)票,卻處處有看頭。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ADaUCuVG.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">這里還是潮州最繁華的步行街,平時(shí)總是人頭攢動(dòng),站在街上會(huì)被人潮帶動(dòng)著你到處逛。各種傳統(tǒng)的新潮的貨品都能在這里找到。很多從海外歸來(lái)的游子都會(huì)特意在這里找尋一些當(dāng)?shù)氐奶厣〕?。?duì)于他們來(lái)說(shuō),這些就是家鄉(xiāng)的味道。仿佛一口美食進(jìn)肚,基因里深處的所有家鄉(xiāng)感覺(jué)都被激活了。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_Hsys7FpB.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<h1>社光村</h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">逛完了潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">我們來(lái)到了</span><span class="a a5">韓江</span><span class="a a5">東面</span><span class="a a5">的社光村</span><span class="a a5">。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_7ZwtZi4I.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">社光村</span><span class="a a5">是潮州菜籃子工程的重點(diǎn)蔬菜基地,也是潮州一個(gè)發(fā)展比較好的新農(nóng)村。但很多人其實(shí)不知道這里還是“廣東省文化和旅游特色村”首批入選村。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_GgirydPm.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">這里有整齊的村道、村民休閑的廣場(chǎng)、圖書(shū)閱覽等,甚至村民們還集資建了非?,F(xiàn)代化的花園式樓盤(pán),但我偏偏這里的老房子更感興趣。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_a90PVll8.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">這是潮州地區(qū)的一種經(jīng)典民居形式:駟馬拖車(chē)</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_GdkaSNkR.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">這些未經(jīng)修飾的舊民居,行走在其中,仿佛穿越回到舊時(shí)。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_BnKEXUde.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">村子位于筆架山南麓、</span><span class="a a5">韓江</span><span class="a a5">北溪之畔,是個(gè)山清水秀的地方。很適合隨便閑逛和攝影。</span></p>
<h1><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span></h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">坐落</span><span class="a a5">在硯峰山麓</span><span class="a a5">,前面是碧綠的夏湖。我們來(lái)到的時(shí)候正好煙雨朦朧,竟讓人有種錯(cuò)入水墨畫(huà)中的感覺(jué)。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_OVKATJ0L.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">頗具古色古香風(fēng)韻的</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">,坐東面西,依山傍水,入口是一座聳立的大石牌坊,三門(mén)歇山頂建筑,高</span><span class="a a5">16</span><span class="a a5">米,氣勢(shì)恢宏磅礴,正中題“東粵菁華”,兩側(cè)分別書(shū)有“金聲”“玉振”,皆是國(guó)學(xué)大師饒宗頤先生的手跡。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_uUHi03mQ.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">牌坊到正殿是三進(jìn)石階,院內(nèi)花圃簇?fù)碇竦镊梓?、青獅、盤(pán)龍及鉎牛等吉祥物。有說(shuō)法這頭鉎牛便是</span><span class="a a5">廣濟(jì)橋</span><span class="a a5">上被沖走的那頭。不過(guò)并沒(méi)有嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)?shù)目茖W(xué)證明哦,當(dāng)是傳說(shuō)便好。主殿正中匾碑“</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">”三個(gè)</span><span class="a a5">餾</span><span class="a a5">金大字由傅杰所書(shū),是從泰國(guó)的</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">拓本移植的。主殿門(mén)外掛上陰刻對(duì)聯(lián)“遠(yuǎn)望觀云,登高視野”,為原全國(guó)佛協(xié)會(huì)長(zhǎng)、書(shū)法家趙樸初墨跡。殿內(nèi)是佛祖釋迦牟尼全身金像,兩旁是“飛天大圣”塑像。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_IZIdI7ll.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">后面的交泰殿,是</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">主要收藏展覽大殿。“交泰”中與北京故宮藏寶璽殿名相同,均取自《易》經(jīng)“天地交泰”之意,但此處另有中泰文化交流之意。殿內(nèi)有泰皇親</span><span class="a a5">賜</span><span class="a a5">《瑪哈蒙空佛像》一組金佛以及中華文化代表文物。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_OEPjm5Oq.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">交泰殿的對(duì)面,有一座頗有深意的雕塑,名字叫無(wú),可以細(xì)品</span><span class="a a5">。</span></p>
<h1>獅峰村</h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">初見(jiàn)獅峰村讓我眼前一亮,村外的</span><span class="a a5">白鷺湖此時(shí)</span><span class="a a5">布滿含苞待放的荷花,隔湖相</span><span class="a a5">望的是潮州的傳統(tǒng)“下山虎”、“四點(diǎn)金”古民居。村后的獅山是風(fēng)水學(xué)中的靠山,在極講究風(fēng)水的潮州人心目中,這個(gè)“前有照,后有靠”的地方必然是個(gè)風(fēng)水寶地。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_FHLLaKhX.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">這里之所以叫白鷺湖,是因?yàn)檫@里長(zhǎng)期棲息著成群的白鷺,但白鷺比較怕人,在白天游人多的時(shí)候,只能偶爾看到不太怕人的池鷺。圖中那只紅頭白身體的鳥(niǎo)兒便是池鷺。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_U9q3bqV8.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">夏季到了,荷花成了白鷺湖里的主角,湖里的荷花大都處于含苞待放的狀態(tài)。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_lCaxUGLc.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">荷花出淤泥而不</span><span class="a a5">染,濯清漣而不妖的特性,一直被譽(yù)為花中君子。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_x98v5wFS.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">湖中的荷花只可遠(yuǎn)觀而不可褻玩,潔身自愛(ài),歷來(lái)都是攝影師喜歡拍攝的對(duì)象。如果想要拍荷花,記得要帶上長(zhǎng)焦鏡頭,不然站在湖邊,望著湖中的荷花也只能徒嘆鞭長(zhǎng)莫及。</span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">蜻蜓也鐘愛(ài)這里,正是小荷才露尖尖腳,早有蜻蜓立上頭。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ah2Gwo22.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">白鷺湖上專(zhuān)門(mén)放了</span><span class="a a5">一臺(tái)制霧的</span><span class="a a5">機(jī)器,古村、荷花和霧氣相映,竟有點(diǎn)像王母娘娘的瑤池。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_PdOXzurS.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">此時(shí)此地,我想起楊萬(wàn)里詩(shī)中描寫(xiě)的“映日荷花別樣紅,接天蓮葉無(wú)窮碧”。想必描寫(xiě)的便是這樣的情景。</span><span class="a a5">bw</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ZxBXVjJm.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">許多周邊的游客,特地趕來(lái)獅峰村賞荷</span><span class="a a5">。</span></p>
<h1><span class="a a5">鳳凰山</span></h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">鳳凰山的海拔有一千多米,一年中幾乎有一半的日子被云霧繚繞,這也造就了這里獨(dú)特的高山云霧茶。鳳凰山出產(chǎn)的鳳凰單</span><span class="a a5">樅</span><span class="a a5">茶遠(yuǎn)近聞名。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_cuNLqkzF.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">一大早爬山到鳳凰山天池,結(jié)果全在云霧里,什么都沒(méi)拍到,倒是下山的時(shí)候才看到茶園從云霧中顯露出來(lái)的場(chǎng)景。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_gOcr0QLZ.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">鳳凰山的云海是非常美的,可惜我們來(lái)的時(shí)間點(diǎn)不對(duì),鳳凰山區(qū)的濕度非常高,水氣常常會(huì)形成云海。日落時(shí)分來(lái)到山上,有機(jī)會(huì)看到非常震撼的云海。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ceHSwytk.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p>鳳凰山上連綿的茶園也是一景,從高處看,也是非常壯觀的。</p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">細(xì)品一座城,余味未盡,余音繚繞</span><span class="a a5">……</span></p>
<p> </p>